Island in the Air

Magic.

Civita di Bagnoregio

There are many beautiful villages in Italy. Tuscany boasts her share of wonderment. Liguria is a seaside visual feast. The Maremma is rustic and wild, a place where time seems to have been frozen. But last week, I read of a place I’d not heard of before. Immediately we were intrigued: Civita di Bagnoregio.

I love the unique, the special, the quirky. I’m in constant search of those moments that create memories. As I read about Civita, I felt sure that it was one of those “chosen” places.

The leaning tower

Tucked into a corner where Toscana, Umbria and Lazio hold hands is this lovely, little, magical place. You know in Italy, sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause things to shift rather dramatically. Everybody knows about the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Faulty foundation. There was no choice other than to try and “correct” the problem by modifying as they built. Voila! The famous Leaning Tower.

Brunelleschi's dome

Brunelleschi lost the competition to cast the bronze doors of the Florence Baptistry to Ghiberti. The result? He turned his attention from sculpture to architecture—creating one of the largest free-standing domes in the world. Magnificent! Makes you wonder, doesn’t it? If the foundation had been stable in Pisa, the city would be “just another Italian city.” If Brunelleschi had won the door competition, the world-famous Duomo of Florence might have been “just another Italian cathedral.” But something happened in those strange circumstances that resulted in magic. This is also true with the village of Civita di Bagnoregio.

Only by foot

Founded by the Etruscans around 2500 years ago, Civita was a thriving sister city to Bagnoregio, both snugly tucked into the northeastern corner of Lazio (the province of Rome). In the 16th century Civita slowly lost its power, relinquishing favor to nearby Bagnoregio. Then, in the 17th century, Fate dealt Civita a decisive blow. The town was shaken by an incredible earthquake, which destroyed much of the connecting land. Then, erosion over the centuries ate away at the remaining ground until the village has become something of an island. In fact, it’s now reachable only by foot across a narrow bridge.

Where Toscana, Umbria and Lazio hold hands

So we were on our way. We crossed town and picked up the A1 at Firenze Sud. After about an hour we passed Arezzo. We saw the exits for Assisi and Perugia but continued south. As we skirted Umbria and entered Lazio, we knew we were close. With the aid of a map and gps, near Orvieto, we drove between the train tracks and the freeway into the countryside. Within minutes we found Bagnoregio. It was a lovely town. Very typical, which means narrow one-way streets lined with shops. At the end of town we parked the car and walked toward what seemed to be the end of the earth.

Delivery of the day

From a vantage point jutting out into a deep valley, we looked through an iron gate to see Civita isolated and perched atop the distant cliffs. We followed the road and began the long walk across the footbridge. A small Ape truck passed us—probably bringing supplies to the few remaining inhabitants. Its engine faltered and strained to make the last few meters up the steep incline.

Day in the life

We wandered through the village streets, each one a picture postcard. The town was quiet, settling in for winter no doubt. At the end of November, the seasons were beginning to shift, autumn relinquishing its tentative grip. There were several cats, huddled together in the shade, or lounging in sunny patches. Folks were friendly. Each time we commented about how beautiful the town was, someone responded with “Si, si, questa città e veramente bellisima. Yes, yes, this city is truly beautiful.”

The devastating earthquake claimed the land that surrounded Civita, leaving it a village balanced atop an island precipice. But that misfortune created the Civita we know today. As sad as the circumstances were, the resulting beauty of the village is remarkable. It’s something like seeing angels dancing on the head of a pin.

Texture and detail everywhere

Breathtaking! We each snapped about 150 pictures. We took distant photos. Detail shots. Since everything is built from tufa, volcanic stone, the textures were absolutely fascinating. However, the one picture that you won’t be able to see is the one in my mind’s eye—my first impression of Civita. Fantasy-like. It seems as though you have no choice but to visit Civita to see for yourself. Then, you’ll press your own unique first impression into memory.

Following is a short video we made to capture just a hint of the magic at this special place.

You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:

Never Sleep – Original Music

The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime

Under the Tuscan Thumb Blog by C & E

Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art

New Music – Virtual CD

Uncommon Promise Video Channel

In Touch In Tuscany

Driven to Distraction

Nothing is simple

5 years ago we studied 8 hours a day for an entire month to prepare ourselves for our Italian Drivers’ License. We passed the written portion of the test without any problems and then had to enroll in drivers’ training behind the wheel to learn the secrets of driving like an Italian. We passed that test too. Whew!

Autoscuola at Piazza Libertà

I keep a calendar of “events” that need to happen. Well, guess what needed to happen in November?! That’s right. We needed to renew our licenses. So we stopped by the Eurodrive Autoscuola, where we had done our original training. The young lady behind the desk wondered why we were there in October. “No, no. E troppo presto! It’s too early.” “Va bene la prima di novembre. It’s okay the first of November.”

Righty

Okay. You are no doubt wondering what it takes to renew the patente, license? We asked and the answer was a 3-part response. We’d need our old license along with our codice fiscale (the Italian version of a social security card). We’d need 95 euro each. And, this is the big one: A VISION TEST. Now this is the hard part of the process for a very simple reason. I am very nearsighted. I’ve worn “corrective lenses” for roughly 3/4 of my life. So what’s the big deal you might ask? The answer is: mono-vision. Years ago my trusty eye doctor prescribed a simple solution for someone nearsighted who wants to read, do needle work, or whatever: one lens. That’s right. I have an eye designated for distance and one that does close-up stuff. It actually works amazingly well. When I asked about driving, I was told that mono-vision is fine. So I’ve enjoyed wearing one contact lens, in my left eye only, for years. But in Italy, they don’t seem to care much about mono-vision. No. You just have to read the eye chart. I was nervous. My right eye is a speed reader with books, but graciously defers to my left eye for anything more demanding than say, farther away than arm’s length. Eye charts are always at least 10 feet away. My right eye began to cry. No way little Righty could pass a distance test. Oh, what to do . . .

My old glasses

Ah, yes. Glasses. I pulled them out of their hard shell case and Em immediately asked, “Where’d those come from?” I explained about my vision anxiety and that I needed to retrain Righty to see far away. “We HAVE to pass that test!” Not to drive in Italy is unheard of. Everybody here relishes the right to cut corners, stray left of center, and speed as though they are being pursued by angry wild boar. “I MUST renew my license!”

Hi-tech testing

Now, at this juncture, you may wonder how I originally passed the vision test. I had the same anxiety and forgot about wearing glasses, so I wore 2 contact lenses. Wow! Distance vision in both eyes! I could spot an owl in the dark at 100 meters, but I couldn’t see to button my sweater. Luckily, Em and I went in together and there, poised on a stool, was Sophia Loren‘s twin. This woman was too beautiful and very stylishly dressed. She immediately began flirting with Em. She asked him to read the chart. And I am not making this up: you cover one eye with your old driver’s license, while the “free eye” reads the chart. Then you switch. Card over the other eye, read the chart. Em’s distance vision is quite good, impressive, according to la Dottoressa, the lady doctor. She complimented him, smiling, chatting and flitting around the room.

The Big Test

Then it was my turn. Card up. Read. Okay. Switch. Card up. Read. I wasn’t sure that she cared about my vision, since she was still gazing into Em’s eyes at the time. But I passed, so what did I care?
But after 5 years, I was slightly worried. Righty could falter. I could go down in a tailspin after the first big E. But no! The glasses worked! I read the chart equally well with both Lefty and Righty. I was thrilled! Also, this year the la Dottoressa apparently had a prior engagement, so il Dottore put us through our paces.

I walked to the front counter and paid my 95 euro, while Em was at the mercy of il Dottore. Whew! What a relief! The young lady behind the counter told me that the new sticker would have to come from Rome—within the next couple of months. She asked if our information was all correct and current. Unfortunately, I had to tell her that the planning commission had changed our address. Same house, same everything—just a different street name and number. Nobody can explain why. So, yes, it’s a bit odd.

Center of the Universe

She looked stern. She informed me that we HAD to have the correct information on the new license and that would require a trip to the official office to get that approval. We made that visit the very  next day and were told that a second new sticker would be issued for our licenses—from Rome, in about 6 months. In the meantime, we’d have to carry proof that we’d applied for the changes. Righty began to cry.

You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:

The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime

Under the Tuscan Thumb Blog by C & E

Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art

New Music – Virtual CD

Uncommon Promise Video Channel

In Touch In Tuscany

In the Market for Memories

Arezzo is everything old

The largest antiques market in all of Tuscany is in the town of Arezzo. It’s always the first Sunday of the month and the Saturday before. Between the incredible antiques and the medieval architecture around every corner, you could spend the entire day just wandering around, lost in the wonder. A visit to Arezzo is one of those intensely real experiences—the stuff of memory-making.

Odds and ends

We used to go to the market EVERY month. We were looking for little odds and ends to create mood in our place. An old brass pot on the hearth says warmth. I wouldn’t cook in it, but it is a sweet little addition. We found a candle snuffer, a copper ladle and just the right lamp shade. Something always catches our eye. But once we’d “feathered our nest” we didn’t need anything else, so we went less often. Focused on other things, we knew that the market was still humming along as usual, but without us.

Relax amid relics

Typically, we’d check out the market in the morning, and then drop into one of our favorite restaurants for lunch. On an especially fun day we found a restaurant owned by a cute little dachshund. (Okay, her person technically owned the place, but don’t let the little dog know). We wove our way through the narrow streets and enjoyed many a lunch there until the doxie sold the restaurant and the place went to the dogs—not really, I just couldn’t resist saying that.

Park free!

Last week, we decided to go to the market, just like old times. When we arrived, we discovered a “new” place to park, just outside the wall—for free. Wow. That was different. As we approached the old Roman wall, we read signs for the scale mobile, moving stairs (escalators). What!!?? Sure enough, during our 5-year absence, Arezzo had installed a series of escalators to move visitors up the hill and into the ancient center. It was a bit odd to see something so new and glitzy. We were stunned. But only about half of the escalators actually worked that day, so we felt consoled that all the quirky ambiance wasn’t totally lost.

Whatever you want

Once inside the city walls we meandered through the streets. Merchants lined every available inch of space as always. Some we recognized from years before. There was enough furniture to fill every villa in Tuscany. There were brass pieces. Lamps. Fireplace tools and screens. There were books and bric-a-brac. Nothing had been missed. If it’s really, really old and transportable, it’s probably for sale at the Arezzo Market.

There's nothing quite like a buca

We browsed a while and inquired about an old fireplace back plate. Troppo caro per noi, too expensive for us. We wandered a while more until mid-day when our thoughts turned to food. The last time we’d come to Arezzo we found this sweet little restaurant in a so-called buco, hole. It was on a side street and down a stone stairway below ground level, hence the buco status. But inside, what fun! The place has arches and vaults, all hand painted and decorated. Hmmm. We just needed to recall where it was. Em asked if I remembered the name. I gave a very tentative response . . .  something about San Francesco. That was enough info. He stepped into the next shop and asked. The woman had a puzzled look at first, then lit up as she said, “Oh, si! La Buca di San Francesco.” She gestured directions waving  to go right and then indicating that we should turn left and then immediately left again. And there it was, right across the street from La Chiesa di San Francesco, the Church of Saint Frances—just as we remembered. It all came back to us.

Thank you Mario!

We had a tasty lunch with wonderful Tuscan hospitality. The star of the restaurant was Mario, a dapper older Italian gentleman who was no doubt the owner. He caught Em snapping my photo and told him to sit down and he’d take a picture of both of us. He then surprised us with a small bowl of Pappa al Pomodoro, a bread and tomato stew spiced with bits of pepperoncini. After lunch Mario insisted that we have some Vin Santo, wine of the saints along with his homemade biscotti. Only AFTER this little taste treat would he even begin to consider bringing us coffee.

After lunch, we retraced our steps and made our way to the car. We didn’t make a single purchase that afternoon. We just browsed. Strolled around. Meandered. What a wonderful way to spend a sunny autumn day.

Pop open a few memories

We love old things: an ancient city like Arezzo; an old friend in a shop we haven’t seen for a while; or musty relics and antiques waiting for a new owner to take them home and breathe new life into them. Mostly, we enjoy creating experiences that grow old in their own unique ways, maturing like an old wine kept in the cantina, cellar. Memories can be uncorked after years of mellowing—sometimes even fresher and tastier than the day they were made!

You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:

The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime

Under the Tuscan Thumb Blog by C & E

Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art

New Music – Virtual CD

Uncommon Promise Video Channel

In Touch In Tuscany

Cooking in Chianti

Friday morning at 9:30, we arrived at Malborghetto, a wonderful restaurant in the small town of Lecchi in Chianti. Immediately, Simone offered us a cappuccino, which is the only authentic way to start the day. The coffee tasted good, warm. We lingered, chatting for 30 minutes or so and he said, “Andiamo! Let’s go!” As we walked toward the kitchen, he handed each of us an apron, embroidered with our name—a nice personal touch. And so we began.

Simone's serious, professional kitchen

First, we washed our hands while Simone pointed out various objects and ingredients in the kitchen. He showed us how the 3 cooks work together, elbowing each other when needed to gain passage. We giggled and nodded. Today’s menu, Simone announced, will be Crostini with liver pate, Pasta and bean soup, Lemon Chicken, and a second chicken, diced and sautéed with garlic and spinach. And, of course, Tiramisu, for dessert.

Layering the cookies with the cream

We started with the Tiramisu. Emerson separated eggs (maybe for the first time in his life but demonstrated a natural talent). Rosemary took the task of whipping the egg whites. Simone told us that when the whites are sufficiently whipped they will cling to an inverted bowl. He slowly tipped the bowl and the meringue stayed put. It looked a bit like a magic trick. We were beginning to get the idea that everything Simone did was for a very specific reason. I blended the whipped whites into the yolks and we added the mascarpone. Finally we dipped Pavensini cookies into cooled black coffee and layered the cookies with the creamy pudding mixture. Then it was off to the fridge.

Now, I’m not going to go into every detail of the preparation of each course, but I will tell you that we cooked until 2 pm. It was as much a chemistry lesson as lunch preparation. Finally, we went back into the dining room and began eating our creations.

Warm pate with toasted bread

The crostini were the best I’ve ever eaten. Simone insists on keeping the pate warm over a burner. He supplied us each with a spoon and we dipped into the savory treat, spreading it sparingly over toasted bread triangles. The next spoonfuls were a little more full. The third round was blatantly heaping. Crunch, crunch. Munch, munch. Quite tasty and satisfying. And then there was soup.

Soup with truffle shavings

The soup is a classic dish. Fresh egg pasta is made and left to dry for a short while before adding it to simmering beans. The soup was perfect for a fall day. Quite tasty and satisfying. Oh, did I mention the wine? As we ate, we enjoyed wine, selected specifically for each course. After the soup I was ready for a nap. But no! We still had the main dish—or as Italians say, il secondo piatto, the second plate.

A decorative line of herbs to separate the dishes

As we finished our soup, Simone‘s wife Ale had prepared our plates. A line of spices divided the plate into two sections: one for the lemon chicken and the other side for the pollo al inzimino, chicken with vegetables (spinach). The lemon chicken was delicious, as was everything else. Troppo cibo, too much food! Although we were more than satisfied, the meal was not over.

Cocoa dusted Tiramisu

As we finished the main course, Ale presented the Tiramisu. It had been dusted with cocoa powder and looked beautiful. But dessert after everything we’d eaten? Okay, okay, just a forkful. Again, it was delicious—and I’m not just saying that because we made it. The food was wonderful. The wine was excellent. And Simone and Ale? The best!

Doxie bonus

Just as we were about to lumber our way to the car, Ale appeared again, with their 3 bassotti, dachshunds. We were in heaven! After a few snuggles with Vittoria, Biancaneve (snow white), and Bartolo, we called it a day. And dinner . . . well, dinner was out of the question—maybe even lunch the next day.

I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again, “Ah, Italia!”

You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:

The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime

Under the Tuscan Thumb Blog by C & E

Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art

New Music – Virtual CD

Uncommon Promise Video Channel

In Touch In Tuscany