Magic.
There are many beautiful villages in Italy. Tuscany boasts her share of wonderment. Liguria is a seaside visual feast. The Maremma is rustic and wild, a place where time seems to have been frozen. But last week, I read of a place I’d not heard of before. Immediately we were intrigued: Civita di Bagnoregio.
I love the unique, the special, the quirky. I’m in constant search of those moments that create memories. As I read about Civita, I felt sure that it was one of those “chosen” places.
Tucked into a corner where Toscana, Umbria and Lazio hold hands is this lovely, little, magical place. You know in Italy, sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause things to shift rather dramatically. Everybody knows about the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Faulty foundation. There was no choice other than to try and “correct” the problem by modifying as they built. Voila! The famous Leaning Tower.
Brunelleschi lost the competition to cast the bronze doors of the Florence Baptistry to Ghiberti. The result? He turned his attention from sculpture to architecture—creating one of the largest free-standing domes in the world. Magnificent! Makes you wonder, doesn’t it? If the foundation had been stable in Pisa, the city would be “just another Italian city.” If Brunelleschi had won the door competition, the world-famous Duomo of Florence might have been “just another Italian cathedral.” But something happened in those strange circumstances that resulted in magic. This is also true with the village of Civita di Bagnoregio.
Founded by the Etruscans around 2500 years ago, Civita was a thriving sister city to Bagnoregio, both snugly tucked into the northeastern corner of Lazio (the province of Rome). In the 16th century Civita slowly lost its power, relinquishing favor to nearby Bagnoregio. Then, in the 17th century, Fate dealt Civita a decisive blow. The town was shaken by an incredible earthquake, which destroyed much of the connecting land. Then, erosion over the centuries ate away at the remaining ground until the village has become something of an island. In fact, it’s now reachable only by foot across a narrow bridge.
So we were on our way. We crossed town and picked up the A1 at Firenze Sud. After about an hour we passed Arezzo. We saw the exits for Assisi and Perugia but continued south. As we skirted Umbria and entered Lazio, we knew we were close. With the aid of a map and gps, near Orvieto, we drove between the train tracks and the freeway into the countryside. Within minutes we found Bagnoregio. It was a lovely town. Very typical, which means narrow one-way streets lined with shops. At the end of town we parked the car and walked toward what seemed to be the end of the earth.
From a vantage point jutting out into a deep valley, we looked through an iron gate to see Civita isolated and perched atop the distant cliffs. We followed the road and began the long walk across the footbridge. A small Ape truck passed us—probably bringing supplies to the few remaining inhabitants. Its engine faltered and strained to make the last few meters up the steep incline.
We wandered through the village streets, each one a picture postcard. The town was quiet, settling in for winter no doubt. At the end of November, the seasons were beginning to shift, autumn relinquishing its tentative grip. There were several cats, huddled together in the shade, or lounging in sunny patches. Folks were friendly. Each time we commented about how beautiful the town was, someone responded with “Si, si, questa città e veramente bellisima. Yes, yes, this city is truly beautiful.”
The devastating earthquake claimed the land that surrounded Civita, leaving it a village balanced atop an island precipice. But that misfortune created the Civita we know today. As sad as the circumstances were, the resulting beauty of the village is remarkable. It’s something like seeing angels dancing on the head of a pin.
Breathtaking! We each snapped about 150 pictures. We took distant photos. Detail shots. Since everything is built from tufa, volcanic stone, the textures were absolutely fascinating. However, the one picture that you won’t be able to see is the one in my mind’s eye—my first impression of Civita. Fantasy-like. It seems as though you have no choice but to visit Civita to see for yourself. Then, you’ll press your own unique first impression into memory.
Following is a short video we made to capture just a hint of the magic at this special place.
You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:
The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime
Under the Tuscan Thumb Blog by C & E
Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art
Net Worth
A Tuscan window and the view beyond
Ah . . . zanzare, mosquitoes! As you may remember from an earlier post, I AM mosquito food. I saw the chart, and I’m all of their food groups combined into the tastiest, zestiest, most complete form of nutrition possible for the little buzzers. But I will not go gentle into that good night (Nod to Dylan Thomas), and we have absolutely no intention of ever covering beautiful Tuscan windows with screens!
After a visit to the US this summer, I returned with a classic mosquito net. This little contraption is to be suspended over the bed, edges tucked in to secure closure and voila! A guaranteed blissful, stingless night’s sleep. Sound too good to be true? We’ll see.
How strange
Upon arriving back in mosquito-land, I unpackaged the net, which was held within an 8.5 X 11 inch thin plastic bag . . . including the hoop. Uh oh, I thought to myself. How can this be “full size” and big enough to safely enclose 2 people? But I suspended judgment as I slid my finger under the flap. 2 pieces dropped to the floor: a billowing flow of ecru color net and a hoop with a diameter of about 6-8 inches. What? I took up precious packing space to include this cheesy little experimental device in my suitcase? Upon viewing the minimalism of it all, I was beginning to feel a bit foolish and disappointed with my decision. It was then that I caught a glimpse of the two pieces of nearly invisible scotch tape around the hoop. I snipped the first piece of tape and nothing happened. NOTHING! I then snipped the second piece and something quite magical occurred. Suddenly, the hoop sprang from my hand and became the diameter of a small hula hoop. I’m not kidding! Miraculously, the small packable hoop lept to my rescue, becoming the key element that I had banked on to save my skin. With a new diameter of nearly 3 feet, I felt an emerging sense of personal satisfaction and possibility. Hmmm. How EXACTLY does this thing work? I was curious.
Perilous proposition
I climbed onto the bed with my small ladder and stood teetering in the center of the mattress that should never be stood upon—right where the net would hang. My simulation was a bit lacking. With a little encouragement, Em assumed the role of a slightly safer net-height-simulator. He’s 6’5″ so we got a pretty good idea about the distance that the hoop should be suspended above the bed.
Necessary stuff
Next? Well, obviously we’d have to install the cup hook (included in my nifty purchase) somewhere in the vaulted clay tile ceiling, which obviously presented a bit of a challenge. Then I remembered. We had bought lenza, fishing line for some patio furniture repairs, so we had the ideal, invisible, high strength solution for dropping the net to exactly 6’5″ above the bed. I was really pleased with the way things were going.
I found a spare key-ring and tied one end of the nylon line in two square knots which I learned how to do when I was a young girl scout. Okay, I was a Brownie. Em installed the hook into a wood ceiling beam—a slight compromise from dead center. He then looped the key ring over the hook. We tied the other end to the ring on the top of the net and the intricate installation was just about complete.
Our new friend Casper
Perfetto, perfect! The mosquito net hung like Casper the friendly ghost hovering above the bed. We spread out the net and entered the no mosquito zone to conduct a “test run.” Seemed good. Had possibility. We admired our work with unspoken self-congratulations and went about our normal routines. Every so often, we’d casually walk by our installation and smile approvingly.
The finished installation
Around midnight, we climbed into our filmy bedroom tent and slid spare pillows into strategic locations to minimize net marks on our faces in the morning. The ad-hoc technique worked like a charm. We felt like kids, camping in the backyard on a clear summer night. A cool breeze wafted through the open windows, which is the way it should be in a Tuscan farmhouse. There was nothing between us and the great outdoors to restrict our morning ritual of leaning out the window to admire the view and take in our first breath of fresh country air.
Ha ha—foiled again!
At 6 am, I awoke to a familiar buzzzzz. Oh, no! I thought to myself, still dazed from my deep sleep. THEY’RE back. And they’re here for only one reason: to sting me in as many new places as possible. I had momentarily forgotten about our new hanging invention and my heart sank with dread. Then my eyes opened, and immediately I saw the recently installed no-fly-zone. AND a nasty little mosquito! He was clingling to the outside of the net trying desperately to get at me. BUT he couldn’t! He buzzed and circled. He dove and searched. He looked for possible entry points finding nothing. No matter how hard he tried, he could not breach the new security barrier. I smiled at him. Okay, it was more of a smirk. I drifted back to sleep with the sweet “white noise” of a mosquito buzzing a safe distance from my ears—a sound I never imagined I would enjoy so much!
You may also enjoy visiting our other websites:
The Journey – The Ride of a Lifetime
The UP Side Lowdown by Cheryl
Uncommon Promise Story, Music and Art
New Music—Virtual CD
Uncommon Promise Video Channel
In Touch in Tuscany
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