Island | The UP Side Lowdown

Magic.

Civita di Bagnoregio

There are many beautiful villages in Italy. Tuscany boasts her share of wonderment. Liguria is a seaside visual feast. The Maremma is rustic and wild, a place where time seems to have been frozen. But last week, I read of a place I’d not heard of before. Immediately we were intrigued: Civita di Bagnoregio.

I love the unique, the special, the quirky. I’m in constant search of those moments that create memories. As I read about Civita, I felt sure that it was one of those “chosen” places.

The leaning tower

Tucked into a corner where Toscana, Umbria and Lazio hold hands is this lovely, little, magical place. You know in Italy, sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause things to shift rather dramatically. Everybody knows about the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Faulty foundation. There was no choice other than to try and “correct” the problem by modifying as they built. Voila! The famous Leaning Tower.

Brunelleschi's dome

Brunelleschi lost the competition to cast the bronze doors of the Florence Baptistry to Ghiberti. The result? He turned his attention from sculpture to architecture—creating one of the largest free-standing domes in the world. Magnificent! Makes you wonder, doesn’t it? If the foundation had been stable in Pisa, the city would be “just another Italian city.” If Brunelleschi had won the door competition, the world-famous Duomo of Florence might have been “just another Italian cathedral.” But something happened in those strange circumstances that resulted in magic. This is also true with the village of Civita di Bagnoregio.

Only by foot

Founded by the Etruscans around 2500 years ago, Civita was a thriving sister city to Bagnoregio, both snugly tucked into the northeastern corner of Lazio (the province of Rome). In the 16th century Civita slowly lost its power, relinquishing favor to nearby Bagnoregio. Then, in the 17th century, Fate dealt Civita a decisive blow. The town was shaken by an incredible earthquake, which destroyed much of the connecting land. Then, erosion over the centuries ate away at the remaining ground until the village has become something of an island. In fact, it’s now reachable only by foot across a narrow bridge.

Where Toscana, Umbria and Lazio hold hands

So we were on our way. We crossed town and picked up the A1 at Firenze Sud. After about an hour we passed Arezzo. We saw the exits for Assisi and Perugia but continued south. As we skirted Umbria and entered Lazio, we knew we were close. With the aid of a map and gps, near Orvieto, we drove between the train tracks and the freeway into the countryside. Within minutes we found Bagnoregio. It was a lovely town. Very typical, which means narrow one-way streets lined with shops. At the end of town we parked the car and walked toward what seemed to be the end of the earth.

Delivery of the day

From a vantage point jutting out into a deep valley, we looked through an iron gate to see Civita isolated and perched atop the distant cliffs. We followed the road and began the long walk across the footbridge. A small Ape truck passed us—probably bringing supplies to the few remaining inhabitants. Its engine faltered and strained to make the last few meters up the steep incline.

Day in the life

We wandered through the village streets, each one a picture postcard. The town was quiet, settling in for winter no doubt. At the end of November, the seasons were beginning to shift, autumn relinquishing its tentative grip. There were several cats, huddled together in the shade, or lounging in sunny patches. Folks were friendly. Each time we commented about how beautiful the town was, someone responded with “Si, si, questa città e veramente bellisima. Yes, yes, this city is truly beautiful.”

The devastating earthquake claimed the land that surrounded Civita, leaving it a village balanced atop an island precipice. But that misfortune created the Civita we know today. As sad as the circumstances were, the resulting beauty of the village is remarkable. It’s something like seeing angels dancing on the head of a pin.

Texture and detail everywhere

Breathtaking! We each snapped about 150 pictures. We took distant photos. Detail shots. Since everything is built from tufa, volcanic stone, the textures were absolutely fascinating. However, the one picture that you won’t be able to see is the one in my mind’s eye—my first impression of Civita. Fantasy-like. It seems as though you have no choice but to visit Civita to see for yourself. Then, you’ll press your own unique first impression into memory.

Following is a short video we made to capture just a hint of the magic at this special place.